Clothes For Life?

For Life Not Landfill was the billboard message that hit me at Oxford Circus. It’s the headline of Jigsaw’s latest sustainability campaign. Images show AW15 product worn with customers’ older items- Knit 2015 / Shirt 1990, proving that their clothes “really do stand the test of time” and are an “antidote to the endless trends and throwaway fast fashion culture.” Whilst the cynic in me might, unfoundedly, accuse Jigsaw of greenwashing*, their campaign echoes my own desire to buy better quality, timeless clothing that lasts.

In the UK alone we buy approximately 1 million tonnes of clothing and discard the same amount (!) Of that about 350,000 tonnes goes to landfill.** But, why do we throw away our clothes? I throw away my clothes for two reasons; either they fall apart or I no longer like them. The Topshop jeans pictured here are five years old, and are made from 98/2 cotton/elastane. Interestingly subsequent purchases of their super soft fabric, 70/27/3 cotton/poly/elastane, haven’t faired as well. The jeans I have bought made from this inferior fabric quality, have never lasted more than a year. In the last 20 years the cost of clothing has actually gone down relative to other prices**. Whilst using cheap labour from developing countries is one reason for this, I suspect that another factor is reduced quality of clothing. Were I to be über geeky and weigh and test Topshop’s two fabric qualities, I imagine the polyester version would be lighter and less durable. By introducing a poorer quality of fabric they can combat rising cost prices and keep the price the same for the customer. This is purely speculation, but in my experience as a knitwear buyer this is exactly what I would do.

To be brutally honest, the fact that I no longer like something is usually the main reason it ends up at the charity shop. As a self-confessed fashion victim I’ve made many embarrassing purchases. Most memorably there were the 1970’s printed jersey palazzos that went baggy at the knees and a faux shearling and leather aviator jacket, purchased because I couldn’t afford the Burberry Prorsum original. All have merrily made their way to my local Mind shop. Unsurprisingly when I buy something I genuinely love, that fits and suits me well; it stays in my wardrobe until it falls apart.

But why don’t I like it any more? I like to think I am an individual, I have my own style and I’m not influenced by anyone else. Of course I am just lying to myself. The camel belted coat pictured, is similar to one I’ve seen several of my favourite bloggers wearing, Alex from The Frugality and Julia from Stylonylon. Check them out, these girls know how to dress! The truth is we are influenced by what others wear, our friends, celebrities, people on Instagram, models in magazines, TV, online the list could go on. But if I take a good long look at myself, I realise that so often I find my value and identity in what I wear. I care that people see me as someone who has their finger on the pulse.

The solution? As a family we have striven to buy better quality garments. My husband has ditched his Gap jeans at £40 a pop, in favour of Levi’s at £80. In this case the economics works, the Levis jeans so far have lasted more than twice as long as the ones from Gap. I bought this & Other Stories camel coat because it has a high wool content, 70/30 wool/polyamide. At £165 I won’t be buying another coat any time soon. But I’d rather own one beautiful coat that’s warm and lasts than several cheaper versions. I have also been trying to only buy things I truly love, independent of trend. Equally sometimes I just need to have a stern word with myself, “you do not need that new black bag you already own 5!” But enough writing let’s see how I did in practise, Jigsaw style:

& Other Stories Coat 2015

Six Ames Jumper 2103

Topshop Jeans 2011

River Island Shoes 2015

Mansur Gavriel Bag – Borrowed, (thank you Ara)

Jewellery – Stella & Dot, Alex Monroe, Maya Magal, Cat Bird and Vintage.

Clearly I have a little way to go.

All photos by Ellie Gillard,

*Greenwashing – a company or organisation spends more time and money claiming to be “green” through advertising and marketing than actually implementing business practices that minimise environmental impact.

**Love Your Clothes

*** NC State University.